dear body.

dear body,

i am sorry for my neglect. i know you are used to a certain kind of care and activity, and the past year of travel has been pretty rough on you. thank you for allowing me to indulge all this world has to offer. i am now vowing to dedicate the next month to you. spring is about rebirth and revival, and we are going to focus on all sorts of re- this month.

sincerely,
your remorseful inhabitant


when you go away to college, everyone warns you to watch out for the “freshman fifteen.” i was lucky enough to evade the dreaded increase in pounds during those four years. i watched the bodies of people around me morph into new versions of themselves. i attributed my stagnant shape to my lack of massive alcohol consumption and obsessive nature to fill my every waking moment with physical activity of some form.

i took my changeless curves for granted. they appeared early and remained consistent for over fifteen years. an hourglass wave that was an embarrassment at age twelve but a blessing shortly after. i made my mom purchase dance leotards one size too small just to compress and hide those unsightly mounds upon my chest during ballet class, until one day, everyone else caught up. all the sudden, we became aware of our bodies.

as a dancer, i grew up engaging my body and staring at it in an entire wall of mirrors. watching its every move. bending and swaying. contracting and extending. it became something outside of myself. a tool that could be manipulated into endless expressions of emotion. every inch of my outline was committed to memory unconsciously. the slightest change never went unnoticed.

of course, there were small variations that occurred here and there. smaller this, bigger that. stronger this, weaker that. but nothing the general acquaintance would be able to pinpoint. everyone obviously knows their own body better than anyone else, but there is something more to it for a dancer. the awareness seems so potent.

despite the horror stories of eating disorders that hover around dancers, i never felt judgment from myself or those around me. the awareness was not critical. it was an acknowledgement of change. the discovery of a shifted medium. but maybe that’s because my body rarely changed.

i have never been the skinny ballerina. although tall and fit, my flesh has always wandered along snakelike, slithering back and forth, creating divots and hidden pockets of sensual white space. i have become very comfortable in the steadiness of its structure.

but the reality is that change is the only constant, and our bodies are firm reminders of this fact.

for the past year, it seems as though my body followed suit with my wandering mind. when rooted in routine, it remained rocklike. when thrown to the winding river, it became unbridled.

now, i want to preface the next section of words, with this: i know i am not fat. that ugly word to which we all subjectively assign meaning. this is not a rant where i will complain about the ten pounds i put on while traveling. it is merely a reflection on my relationship with appearance… and the effects of drinking beer.

i didn’t put on those infamous fifteen pounds associated with collegiate debauchery, but i did manage to put them on while living in australia.

inserted into a culture where a beer or two with dinner is the norm. i am not saying that that same culture does not exist in america, but amongst my circles, it is unusual.

inserted into a remote town where you can’t find at least twenty yoga studios on google within a mile of your house. or a climbing gym. or an adult/professional dance studio.

now i know that some of you are rolling your eyes at me and thinking that you can do yoga anywhere, especially as a trained yoga teacher. and yes, i could stand on my soapbox and preach to you for at least an hour about how personal practice is extremely important. how taking time to develop a daily routine that can keep you grounded no matter where your physical location brings you is essential to maintaining balance. hell, i even wrote an article about it.

i have no excuse. i am not perfect. there are so many articles about how to stay in shape while traveling because it is hard!

i indulged in the sedentary side of my situation. slowing down felt good. relaxing into something lazy felt good. letting love create imbalance felt good.

and then it didn’t.

all of the sudden, the button on my pants pursed with pain. my comfortable curves poured over their established boundaries. and for the first time in my life, i felt judgment sneak in. i stepped on the scale and was confused as the tens digit changed from its usual reading to something else. something new. something unsettling.

i wouldn’t change the way i spent my time at all. i don’t regret giving into inactive for once in my life. like when elizabeth gilbert gains weight eating heaps of delicious pasta in italy. sometimes it happens and it is more than okay.

but it made me think about my resilience to physical change. in my twenty-seven years, i have had the joy of never having to deal with drastic bodily changes. yet, i’ve always known they would come at some point. babies is a definite game changer on the horizon, and as women, we all get that. but it was shocking how much ten pounds affected me. maybe a life in front of mirrors impacted me more than i thought.

i am now craving a return to routine purely so my body remembers itself. remembers the way it arches and flexes. stretches and flows. i am a stranger in this shape. it is not time to give into something new.

so home to portland i go. a city filled with endless options to stay active. businesses and teachers that feel like family. as soon as i step off the plane, i’ll be headed to nathan’s yoga class. an easy reminder of how balanced movement makes me feel. the first step to reclaiming myself.

i don’t know.

post-post warning: i am extremely tired after several days of travel and cannot be held accountable for the waxing (and waning) wisdom that is spewed into this blog post. i consider lack of sleep among one of the most unpredictable drugs on the planet. enjoy.

they say that the first mile is always the hardest in distance running. you are finding your pace, your breath, your rhythm. i don’t know for sure (because i’ve never been able to make it through the first mile without walking out the cramp that forms around the halfway mark), but i am finding the same is true about nomad-ing.

it’s been fifteen months since i packed up everything i own and moved it into the basement of my previous portland home (thanks to my roomies’ kindness). what started out as a three month temporary travel plan that included the holidays at home in chicago and a month long trip to india ended up being the initial mile.

we all have dreams. we sometimes get so far as to lace up our shoes, but it’s that first mile that solidifies the motion.

if i could measure the past fifteen months in miles, i’m sure i would have run at least one marathon by now.

are you starting to wonder where am i going with this running analogy? me too. i have no clue. just running with it… (sorry i had to.)

…and i can’t stop.

i’ve been back from australia for six days. in those six days, i have visited five cities in four different states and soaked in the smiles of several faces that will continue to fuel my journey.

but i am tired and the idea of my own bed, in my own house, with my own bathtub, and my own bookshelf sounds amazing. planting my feet in western australia for two months was a welcome oasis to the constant chaos of bouncing from one guest bedroom to another. i had a bed and a house and a bathtub and a bookshelf.

but now i am back in america. a return to being home-less.

there is a pamphlet that i carry with me on all my adventures called “finding a home.” one of the articles in it from the christian science monitor starts, “a small boy was being pitied because he and his family were living in a hotel. he replied, ‘oh, but we do have a home. it’s just that we haven’t anywhere to put it at the moment.’” (if you’ve seen this quotation in my other blog posts, forgive me.)

i don’t know where to put it yet.

and that is the question that seems to be on everyone’s minds.

are you moving to australia?
are you finally planting roots somewhere?
where are you going to live?
when are you going to stop traveling?

as my facebook feed piles up with news about engagements, weddings, new homes, babies, and more babies, i hear those same questions creeping up into my head. trying like mad to rip apart the safety net i have worked hard to wrap around the present moment.

i am known for not accepting “i don’t know” as an answer. several of my close friends have probably heard one of these annoying mom statements come out of my mouth more than once:

what do you mean you don’t know?
“i don’t know” isn’t an answer.
what don’t you know?

it seemed like a lazy answer, but i am beginning to realize that it can also be a protective response.

why do i want to shatter the possibilities of tomorrow’s tomorrow by answering those questions today?

are you moving to australia? i don’t know.
are you finally planting roots somewhere? i don’t know.
where are you going to live? i don’t know.
when are you going to stop traveling? i don’t know.

it’s not that i don’t care enough to give you thoughtful responses to these obvious questions, it’s that as much as the roller coaster of the unknown makes me want to punch a puppy in the face sometimes, it is also what makes life worth living.

so for now, i’ll continue in the unknown. unsure of what next week will bring. searching for a place to put my home.

hedland you have my heart.

i am definitely one of those people who has a weird attachment to hallmark holidays like valentine’s day. blame it on too many romantic comedies in my most formative years or the remnants of being the product of divorced parents, but it’s something i know and accept about myself. give me any excuse to send someone a card in the mail, and i’ll take it. christmas, birthdays, valentine’s day. who knows, maybe someone will even get lucky enough for me to resort to sending president’s day cards this year.

i don’t know what it is about the days of the year with special titles, but they hold a dear place in my heart. i understand the common argument that we should be celebrating the things we celebrate on those days every day of the year. i also don’t see why it’s such a big deal that we give things a little extra celebration.

especially love.

love deserves it’s own day.

now, do i believe that love equates to overly priced red roses and expensive jewelry? of course not. (although if your partner’s love language is receiving gifts, then you are probably on the right path by celebrating love that way.)

good old saint valentine of rome did something that would make all sentimentals swoon. marrying soldiers forbidden to marry and ministering to persecuted christians. it’s exactly the kind of martyr that all good romantic tales need. i’m sure there’s a hollywood hit waiting to happen here folks. a modern twist on an old roman legend.

however, valentine’s day is not always filled with love. in fact the emphasis on love often sends people running in the opposite direction.

case in point: my 2010, 2011, and 2012 valentine’s days all happened right around a break up.

for us eternal optimists, we douse ourselves in self-love and go see blue valentine with two other love misfits and feel your heart sink when michelle williams tap dances to ryan gosling’s musical magic.

we cry over the beautiful handmade valentine cards our friends deliver to our doors. we convince ourselves that we are ready to embrace our new found freedom to experience love alone.

and then you are alone.

and your relationship with love evolves.

last year, i spent valentine’s day in india. we were on an airplane traveling from delhi to mumbai most of the day, but as our taxi drove us to our hotel along marine drive, you could feel the love in the air. it was thicker than the hot indian air. the entire city coast of the arabian sea was lined with couples sitting in the dark soaking in the bright lights of the endless skyline.

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some people find this an absolutely horrible place to spend valentine’s day in mumbai. but for me, it was beautiful. no was alone. it is impossible to be alone in a country so filled with people. so filled with love.

i felt that stupid grin come over my face and stay there motionless as i flattened my nose against the taxi window, staring out into the faceless sea of people celebrating the forbidden love of centuries ago.

today is valentine’s day (in my timezone), and i have again found myself in a foreign land. only this year, it doesn’t seem like such a big day for me. every moment of this year has overflowed with romance. by romance, i mean this definition: “the colorful world, life, or conditions depicted in romantic tales.” or maybe it’s this one: “a baseless, made-up story, usually full of exaggeration or fanciful invention.”

sometimes i can hardly tell the difference.

every day in this small remote town has felt filled with love. a love for the person waking up next to me, a love for the new experiences, and an immense love for the landscape surrounding us.

so in gratitude to this, here is my goodbye valentine to port hedland: a sea of storms, sunrises, and sunsets transforming every day into valentine’s day.

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22 ways you know you’re in australia.

i am a list maker. always have been. probably one of post-it notes’ favorite customers. it turns out that most people like reading lists as well. easy to digest. hence why we all (me included) spend obscene amounts of time on buzzfeed.com. do you really care about 31 grilled cheeses that are better than a boyfriend? for the one minute of your life that it takes you to scroll through 31 images of delicious cheesy concoctions, you totally care.

and for the next one to seven minutes of your life (depending on how fast you read and how much i actually end up writing) i am going to make you care about a few of the things i have learned over my past three months in australia. (unfortunately, i will not have hilarious gif animations to accompany my list. i am deeply sorry for this fact and will make up for it by directing you to this similar list.)

22 ways you know you’re in australia (in no apparent order)

i am going to try to avoid the obvious ways like vocabulary differences because that could easily create a list with over 100 ways in a matter of seconds. let’s be real, it’s not english folks. and yes, i know that a lot of these are true for other countries as well, but currently i’m in australia…

  1. you go to swipe your credit card and the cashier looks at you funny. to make the matter worse, she then has to go find a pen when you select the option to sign instead of entering a pin number. we get it, america needs to say goodbye stripe, hello chip.
  2. acronyms don’t ever get pronounced letter by letter and you have no clue what the hell EFTPOS means. sorry aussies, it’s said U-P-S, not ups.
  3. everyone wants to watch you try vegemite and then teach you how to properly eat it.
  4. you make money just by pulling it out of the atm. (right now anyways.) and then immediately lose it when you pay $15 for a cheeseburger and fries at mcdonald’s.
  5. leftover cold spaghetti is commonly known as breakfast. don’t try saving that pasta for lunch over here. there’s no chance it will still be in the fridge.
  6. chicken parmesan (parmi) is not a fancy dish you get at olive garden. it is a staple food group. don’t ever order a beef parmi. someone will eat it, but they won’t like you for it.
  7. entering or leaving a room means an impromptu techno dance party as you try to figure out which way the light switch goes. on – off – on – off.
  8. hanging laundry outside on the line to dry is not something you do just to be green. you just do it, and you totally feel like you’re a 50’s housewife in the process. don’t worry, the clothes still get hot enough to dump them on top of yourself on your bed and bask in their warmth (for about two seconds until you start sweating).
  9. instead of a washer and dryer, you have two washing machines. one for work clothes and one for regular clothes. (perhaps specific to port hedland.)
  10. cold water is a magical thing that you only dream about. although you never have to worry about the shock effect of stepping into the shower before the water warms up, you do have to worry about burning your skin off instantly, whether you turn on the hot or cold water handle.
  11. you’re excited to see your favorite tv show come up on the tv guide, only to discover it’s season one. get with the times australia. new girl is now in season three. so you open you’re netflix account only to find…
  12. …netflix, hulu plus, and every other subscription you have is “sorry, currently our video library can only be watched from within the united states.”
  13. kfc is “good.” probably regarded as the king of fast food chains. come on aussies, really?!
  14. fried chicken is an ingredient in sushi. last time i checked sushi was meant to be raw fish, but i guess over here, chicken is the chicken of the sea.
  15. someone asks you to tea and is offended when you eat beforehand. just call it dinner, and we won’t get confused.
  16. triple j is the only radio station that matters. you should also know the phrase “like a version.”
  17. crickets are not the only creature chirping in your house. unlike when i was younger, here you can have a pet gecko without having to ask. the one that lives in my office is named echo jr. (named after the one i had in high school), and his chirping gives me something to respond to when i am working at home alone from 6am to 6pm. don’t laugh, you know you talk to yourself too…
  18. every time you go to explain what you think is “an american thing,” you are informed that they have a television.
  19. magically you feel skinnier because your weight is only a third in kilograms. oh, you also feel like you’ve run farther. thanks metric system.
  20. you have to enjoy super bowl sunday at 7am…on monday.
  21. there is always a cricket game on at least four channels, and you get excited for a second when you think it’s baseball. then you realize you have absolutely no clue what is going on and why the score is in the hundreds.
  22. beer and water are interchangeable at any time of the day. and they have the biggest ad for beer ever. you’ve probably already seen the commercial, but if you haven’t:

35 before 35.

as i said i would do in a previous blog post, i am posting my list of 35 things i want to do before i turn 35 (in no apparent order). it’s an interesting exercise. obviously there are way more things i want to do in the next eight years, but narrowing it down is half the fun. find me when i’m 35, and i’ll let you know how it went. so far i am getting closer to the bold ones. oh, and i got to cross off #32 thanks to my australian adventure.

11/12/15 update: crossed off some more.

  1. LEARN TO PLAY GUITAR
  2. VISIT AUNT AND COUSINS IN FRANCE
  3. LEARN TO COOK BETTER
  4. HAVE CHICKENS
  5. LEARN TO SAIL 
  6. GO SKYDIVING
  7. GO SCUBADIVING
  8. VISIT ICELAND
  9. OPEN YOGA STUDIO/TEACH YOGA TO YOUTH
  10. RETURN TO DANCE PERFORMANCE
  11. CLIMB 5.12 CONSISTENTLY
  12. OWN PROPERTY ON LAKE MICHIGAN IN MICHIGAN
  13. CLIMB AT HUECO AND EL POTRERO
  14. RETURN TO SOUTH AMERICA
  15. GET A SIX PACK
  16. PUBLISH TRAVEL WRITING
  17. WORK WITH AT-RISK YOUTH AGAIN, OUTWARD BOUND STYLE
  18. TRAVEL TO SE ASIA AND JAPAN
  19. BUY A DIFFERENT CAR
  20. HAVE MORE MONEY IN SAVINGS
  21. START IRA
  22. LEARN TO TRAD/BIG WALL CLIMB
  23. SPEND A SEASON AS A SKI BUM
  24. FIND LOVE/START A FAMILY
  25. WEAR OVERALLS WHILE PREGNANT
  26. DO CS CLASS INSTRUCTION
  27. GET 200/500 RYT YOGA CERTIFICATION
  28. MAKE OVER $80K ANNUALLY
  29. SET UP OWN PHOTOGRAPHY DARK ROOM/ART STUDIO
  30. DO MORE ENCAUSTIC PAINTING
  31. VISIT ALL 50 STATES
  32. LEARN TO DRIVE MANUAL
  33. TREK AROUND ALASKA
  34. HIKE THE PACIFIC COAST TRAIL
  35. LEARN TO SURF

small town shut down.

it’s almost the chinese new year, and it’s almost valentine’s day. so i figured i’d better do a post summing up my birthday, christmas, and new year’s eve before another holiday takes precedence. yes, i know it’s way overdue, but oh well. deal with it.

’twas three days before christmas…

we got in the truck and headed out to a close-by national park. my human navigator informed me it was a two-ish hour drive. google maps informed me it was closer to four. but either way, we hit the open road once more. it had only been a week since we landed in south hedland, but it was my birthday, and since there is not much to do in town, we headed out of town.

back on the open road. back soaking in the beautiful west australia outback from the passenger side window (on the left side) of a sturdy white pick-up truck. red soil and gum trees and sunny skies.

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four hours and several musical artists later, we arrived at my birthday present: a breathtaking maze of river gorges complete with awe-inspiring cliffs and refreshing pools.

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also known as karijini national park.

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when you are with ryan, you never know what kind of adventure you are in for, but we managed to walk by a deadly snake unharmed, swim through several connecting pools without staring down a crocodile, and inch along unprotected ledges without falling to our death. i’d call it a successful entrance into my twenty-seventh year.

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and to top it all off, mother nature threw in a picturesque dust/thunderstorm.

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and a bushfire extravaganza on the ride home.

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’twas time to celebrate christmas…

shopping for gifts in south hedland is an interesting endeavor. your choices are pretty limited. if you can’t find it at kmart, well, good luck. but ryan and i managed to fill up the space under our makeshift gum tree christmas tree.

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i cannot remember the last time i spent christmas away from my family. it might have been when i visited my best friend aisha over winter break back in the fifth grade.

needless to say, it was a big deal that i was halfway across the world spending the holidays with a man i had only known for a couple months. on christmas eve, i had no idea if i would have an emotional breakdown and purchase the next flight home in a teary haze.

luckily, that was not the case. that was not the case at all.

instead, ryan and i spent the morning laughing hilariously at the random gifts we had ended up getting each other and awing at the thoughtful gifts that still managed to find their way under our gum christmas tree. we also got to enjoy the gloves with light-up fingertips that my mom sent us…for about five seconds, before storing in the closet. love you mom. (we haven’t quite found a use for them in the 100º weather yet, but we’re still trying.)

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then ryan went on a weird productive streak. he mowed the lawn and built a bookshelf.

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i sat in the sunshine and enjoyed my first ever warm christmas.

it was weird.

i have never celebrated christmas without the blustery cold tapping at the windowsill. i now know how people living in california experience the holidays.

to be honest, i prefer the snow.

now i understand that everyone reading this from the united states is currently cursing me, and i am sorry that old man winter has taken his temper out on you, but christmas just isn’t the same when it’s warm out. an evergreen covered in tinsel just needs a crackling fireplace next to it. trust me on this one.

on the other hand, celebrating the holiday in an empty house with someone you care about makes you realize that where you are doesn’t really matter. (insert a bunch of heartfelt comments about the spirit of christmas here.)

but i did manage to stay up late and skype with my family as they awoke on christmas morning. it was the perfect way to end my holiday away from home.

then nothing was stirring or leaving the house…

i celebrated my first boxing day by watching the weather radar. a large swirling cloud was moving closer and closer to the dot labeled port hedland. people were clearing the shelves of the grocery store and there was a limit on how much alcohol you could buy from the liquor store.

cyclone christine was on her way. blue alert. yellow alert.

and then, as we got the final “red alert” warning, all of south hedland and port hedland entered a phase i like to call “small town shut down.”

no one left their house. in fact, if you did try to drive the streets, you could apparently get up to a $50,000 fine.

it turns out that everyone seems to overreact to cyclones up here. did she do some damage? sure. was it necessary to buy four gallons of milk? not so much. but overall, cyclone christine was another gift to me from mother nature.

however, the cyclone was nothing in comparison to another bit of luck that came our way on boxing day.

the air conditioning broke.

oh yes. we braved over 100º temperatures and 85% humidity…for a week.

it seems that everyone goes home for the holidays, and that includes all the smart people who could fix the air conditioning. so for over a week, i discovered new and exciting places that sweat. and how impossible it is to work when you’re dripping on your keyboard. and how much i hate bugs inside the house.

after enjoying several days of the cricket symphony, i realized that they were not just serenading me from outside the window. they were inside. and they were taking over. apparently the air conditioning had kept them away, but now we were left defenseless.

ryan told me not to worry because the frogs will eat the crickets. but then followed it by informing me that the snakes would eat the frogs.

great. snakes in the house? this nature girl was not ready for snakes in the house. especially when we were sleeping on a blow-up mattress an inch off the floor.

and the next day when i saw a frog in the toilet, i knew it was time to unleash chemical warfare against the relentless cricket army. (i do apologize to all my insect-loving, non-chemical-using readers, but it had to be done.)

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so i guess some hedland residents did get to leave the house over the holiday…

until the clock stuck midnight…

somehow, ryan and i managed not to kill each other in the post-cyclone heat and humidity. after being cooped up in a sweaty house all week, we still managed to have an entertaining celebration complete with puzzle-ing, dancing, and white wine to ring in the new year!

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then finally, the small town shut down started to slowly lift its grip over port hedland. it was like at the end of a yoga class when the teacher whispers for you to start wiggling your fingers and toes, bringing life back into your body after a restful shavasana.

people started returning. stores didn’t have weird hours. the gym and pool were open again. but most importantly, the air conditioning mechanics were back at work. unfortunately, they couldn’t even fix the problem.

fortunately, ryan was able to pick up some temporary window units. i don’t think i have ever found anyone quite as sexy as the moment he turned the air conditioning back on.

it’s the small things in life, and i’m looking forward to every single small thing 2014 has in store for me.

and welcome back to present day…

getting lost in port hedland.

yesterday i received a package in the mail from a friend. it was a beautiful handmade collaged card that read, “remember that wherever your heart is, there you will find your treasure.” the words “heart” and “treasure” were cut from a magazine and stood out amongst the rest.

there was a black and white image of a native with a crown of leaves blowing into a conch shell and a sunflower unready to bloom. there was a vibrant image of a clay pot filled with yellow crushed powder.

it was as if that mustard pigment was waiting for someone to spread its color throughout the scene. bring the sunflower’s curled up petals back to life. creep into the leaves and echo into the shell. they say you can hear the ocean if you place it against your ear.

the card was accompanied by a book. a field guide to getting lost by rebecca solnit.

there i was. on the northern coast of western australia. in a small transient town defined by the mining industry. in the soon-to-be-remodeled kitchen of a brick home on kennedy street.

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staring at this book. and this note. sent halfway across the world to me by a friend.

i flipped through the pages but turned back to the cover.

a field guide to getting lost…

after our epic two week road trip, we arrived in south hedland after dark on december 15th.

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i could not see the town as we drove into where i would call home for the next two months. there were heaps of tiny lights shining in the distance, and we had to wait for a long train loaded with iron ore to pass before getting into town.

ryan had not yet picked up the keys to his house from the previous property manager, and it was late on sunday night. so continuing in our usual fashion, we set up the swag for the night…on ryan’s own patio (see photo below). but not before doing a headlamp-fueled inspection of the property.

every home in the area has aluminum siding fences surrounding the perimeter. gates open and close allowing only those with permission in. there is no waving to your neighbor as you mow your lawn. no drinking coffee in a rocking chair on the front porch smiling at strangers.

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as we walked around the yard and house, ryan pointed out the broken security light. i tiptoed over the broken glass allowing fear to creep in slightly. then he pointed out the small white handprints painted on the back of the brick exterior. a lump formed in my throat. then he pointed out where someone had tried to break in through the window screen. i became visible scared.

are you all right? he asked me.

we were going to sleep outside on the cement ground of the patio of this house that had been unoccupied for two months. a house and neighborhood that ryan had not seen in six years.

it was dark. and we all know what happens to the mind in the dark.
i don’t think i slept that night. and when i did sink into a sleepy stupor, i inevitably woke up to a mother cat protecting her three kittens or a gecko crawling alongside our makeshift bed or the sprinklers coming on to keep the grass green.

and then it was morning.

the sun woke up quickly and so did i.

but all the sudden, the park across the street was a welcome sight instead of a vast emptiness filled with the unknown. and all the sudden, i was in a new world.

welcome to port hedland. or south hedland actually.

south hedland is a sister town to port hedland, an 18km drive across empty fields of red dirt and past a salt mine.

port hedland is the second largest town in the pilbara region of western australia, with a population of approximately 14,000, about half located in south hedland.

yep, you read that correctly. south hedland has about 7,000 people. that is the same amount of people as my freshman class at university of michigan. that is a little over four times the amount of facebook friends i have. that is…small. and yet it is the second largest town in the region!

every aussie i had met along this trip had asked me one question, “do you know what you’re getting yourself into?”

i had smiled and thought something similar to what that card read, “remember that wherever your heart is, there you will find your treasure.”

i was following my heart. and although i knew all along that we were driving to a house in the middle of nowhere,  i’ll admit that as ryan drove me around port hedland and south hedland on the first day, my heart sunk. i tried to feign a smile as he took me to one of port hedland’s oceanfront parks, but i failed miserable.

it was over 100º F at 9am. i had not slept the entire night for fear of someone or thing climbing over the fence to get us. and now, here i was, staring out into an ocean (one that i couldn’t swim in due to sharks and crocodiles) filled with massive ships waiting to deliver millions of dollars worth of merchandise to somewhere faraway. and i wanted to be faraway too.

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port hedland has a natural deep anchorage harbor which, as well as being the main fuel and container receiving point for the region, was seen as perfect for shipment of the iron ore being mined in the ranges located inland from the town. the ore is moved by railway lines from four major iron ore deposits to the east and south. we’re talking about 15 million tons of iron ore shipped out yearly.

when you arrive in hedland, you instantly form a frustrating relationship with iron ore. or rather with the red dirt that covers everything. you cannot walk outside without coming back in with a bit of a red tint to your skin. when you dust, your cloth turns red. when you mop, your water turns red. when you do laundry, your machine turns red. it is impossible to keep up with it.

and so you learn to love it.

there is something amazingly beautiful about a barren red landscape illuminated by a setting sun. the contrast of blue sky to red earth reminds me of that yellow pigment waiting to paint the black and white images on my card. the glow of the sun seems to connect to the soil and create an endless horizon.

i haven’t spent a lot of time in arizona, but i imagine it would be something like this place. only maybe substitute gum trees and spinifex for the multiple types of cacti.

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situated in the middle of the town is a shopping center. envision a mall from the 90s. pretty run down but trying its best to become hip. inside the shopping center is a kmart, coles grocery store, pharmacy, and a few random other stores and kiosks including a news/magazine stand that i have been banned from shopping at because ryan does not like that they have a $15 minimum for credit card purchases.

it is pretty regular to find some reason to go to the shopping center almost every day. especially since we arrived in south hedland to an entirely empty house. the first purchase involved towels for a much needed shower.

everything else in town surrounds the shopping center. now by everything else, i really just mean the essentials: schools, hospital, library, gas station, pub, liquor store, hardware shop, post office, salon, youth center, swimming pool, fitness center, chinese food, subway, and mcdonald’s.

literally, that is everything that is in south hedland. if you drive the 18km to port hedland, you can make the list a little longer, but not by much.

after a few weeks of living here, my credit card bill had become pretty hilarious. there were only three companies that received most my money: kmart, coles, and mcdonald’s (aka macca’s here).

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now you might think that with only three stores taking up space on my credit card that i might have saved some money, but it is quite the contrary here in the desert. everything is way more expensive. most things are more expensive in australia, but this place is an extreme.

an easy example…

there is no movie theater in hedland. no movie theater anywhere close to here! however, the high school has a performing arts auditorium that shows a recently released movie once or twice a week. you just have to pay $18 per ticket! (and yes, i did make ryan pay $36 so we could go see anchorman 2.)

back home, the movie theater is a staple of my life. every holiday and family gathering usually ends in my brother informing us which movie he hasn’t seen yet and that we are allowed to go see as a family.

and here i was, about to spend my birthday, christmas, and new year’s in a town with no movie theater.

had i lost my mind?

or was i losing myself in something new and unknown?

i started reading the book that flew several thousand miles to meet me today. the first chapter explores a question posed by the pre-socratic philosopher meno:

“how will you go about finding that thing the nature of which is totally unknown to you?”

when we arrived here in december, i had never lived in a small, remote town. not in america, and definitely not in australia. but now, a month later, i am learning how to get lost in it.

the final push.

after a few hundred kilometers, a sleepless night in kununurra where i woke up at 2am to ensure a timely social media post for a client, and a quick dip in the closed caravan park pool, we were on our way to broome (green pin labeled M)!

“it’s the final push. well, almost…”

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my chauffeur for this journey was starting to tire after all his kilometers behind the wheel. the standard road trip lull was setting in. it only took us two weeks on the road! wow. we lasted a long time without getting bored or on each others’ nerves. pretty good. but now we still had two days left of driving before reaching our final destination.

all people who work with youth have this part of their brain reserved for situations like this. i learned this from my mom at a young age. whenever i reached the classic child breaking point, out came those three dreaded words: “maaaaaam, i’m boooooored.”

now whereas most parents might brush off the annoying whine of this phrase, my mom instantly switched into that special teacher part of her brain.

“oh! i have an idea! why don’t you take the box from our new refrigerator and build a castle? or maybe you could make up a dance and put on a recital for your dad when he gets home from work! or how’s that new story you were writing last week coming? did you add illustrations yet?”

and so, when i saw that glazed-over, grumpy look creeping across ryan’s face and felt the silence setting in quickly, i instinctively tapped into that precious section of brainwaves reserved for spur-the-moment entertaining activities.

“do you want to put some different music on?”

nothing.

“do you want to listen to an audiobook? shit my dad says is pretty hilarious.”

not so much.

“how about i watch a movie and you can listen in?”

pause. and then…interest.

“you can pick the movie. how about that classic australian film you wanted me to watch. what’s it called again?”

the castle or animal kingdom?”

“um, either one. we can watch both. want to do that?”

i. nailed. it. a lifetime of working with youth, and i am an endless supply of ideas to end boredom. for twenty-eight year old men…

now if you’ve never seen either of the above mentioned movies, please rent them immediately. and if you are headed to spend some time with a fair dinkum aussie family, consider watching the castle as required preparation. just a snippet to wet your whistle:

with only one quick pit stop to go explore a group of boulders and climb a big boab tree…

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…we made it to broome just in time to check into the kimberly klub hostel and catch the opening act of a live band covering popular american tunes (again) at a local restaurant/pub.

i will now take a moment of silence (and you should too) for what happened next.

while eating overpriced french fries (known as chips here), the band set up and started playing. after the first song, this short old man with a fedora atop his head drifted onto the dance floor.

(i didn’t have the heart to pick up my phone and record him, so you will have to try to envision this through my verbal reenactment.)

as the band prepared for their next song, he stuck a pose. think the moonwalker cover:

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then as they began to play colin hay’s “overkill” things got crazy. a base of michael jackson-esque movements. a touch of involuntary jerking. a pinch of complete lack of rhythm. oh and then there was the occasional will farrell old school ribbon dancing tour jete:

oh wow was it priceless! in these type of situations, i am normally the one to go join the lone dancer, but that night, i didn’t have it in me. i just sat and enjoyed the abusive spirit fingers from afar. as they would say down here, good on ya mate.

after a semi-restful night in the hostel, we spent the day taking in what broome is all about. a stroll around the cute and quaint beach town including a stop at the world’s oldest operating picture gardens.

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a stop in a couple pearl shops and museums. (broome area is known for pearling.)

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a four wheel drive adventure down the beautiful white sand of cable beach followed by a dip in the ocean and a picnic lunch.

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you’d think that a country completely surrounded the ocean would have marvelous beaches on absolutely every inch of the coast. but that is just not the case. broome was the first beach i had seen since airlie beach that matched the kind of beach you imagine when you think of australia. and despite it’s beauty, there was not more than ten people there. truly magical.

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and the magic continued as we grabbed some lunch at a hip restaurant with waterfront views. and by magic, i mean that magical moment that everyone following me throughout australia has been waiting for…

i had my first bite of kangaroo.

it was smoked. and it was delicious. yes, i repeat: it was delicious.

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with bellies full of ‘roo, we climbed back into the ute.

“here we go. the final push.”

and this time it really was. only six and a half hours until we arrive in port hedland. only 612km until our two week road trip comes to an end. only 380mi until the next chapter of this adventure begins.

from waterfalls to pub crawls.

some people procrastinate by watching tv, some by eating, some by surfing the web. although i do all of those, my big one is cleaning. i organize and scrub the entire house (slight exaggeration) before sitting down to do work. before sitting down to write.

so as i type this, please be forewarned that i am completely high on a weird mixture of ajax, vinegar, laundry detergent, and toilet bowl cleaner. the computer screen is a bit fuzzy, and my head is mildly throbbing. i want to open a window, but it is hot and humid outside. probably not helpful.

but on the upside, my chemical inhalation mixed with the broadway musical channel currently playing on pandora might make for an interesting blog post.

i am still so behind and falling even more behind each day. so i am just going to dig in.

dig into to darwin. (the green pin labeled G.)

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we drove a bit out of the way (632km or 393mi to be exact) to visit darwin, but boy was it a relief. after days in the car cruising through barren outback, high-rise condo buildings were a welcome sight.

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but before i jump into how excited i was to sleep in an air conditioned bedroom on a real mattress,  let me tell you about a magical place called litchfield national park. about 1,500 sq. km. of gumtrees,  termite mounds, waterfalls, and plunge pools.

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if you ever find yourself in the northern territory, you should add this place to your list. although the crocodile warning signs do make you a bit jumping when you dive into murky water…

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litchfield highlights:

  • magnetic termite mounds. these termite mounds are built by thousands of termites with a north-south orientation to control the temperature inside the mounds. they just know which way is north. i wish i had that great of an internal compass. they cover the field like massive gravestones thin as pancakes.

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  • cathedral termite mounds. these things are huge! and they’re built by things that are sooo small. ridiculous.

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  • buley rockhole. florence falls. tolmer falls. (photos in that order.) if you like waterfalls and feeling like a mermaid, this is the park for you. (little mermaid’s “kiss the girl” just came on pandora, i shit you not.) of course we ignored the signs telling us not to climb the cliffs. nothing like jumping through a waterfall with a grin bigger than the crescent moon.

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  • wangi falls. so many bats sleeping in trees! (yes, that is what the black things are in the photo below.) the water was closed due to possible alligator and croc infestation (standard), but still a great spot to smile and ask fellow tourists to snap a photo. oh, and wear really awesome movie star hats to prevent skin cancer.

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now, back to that excitement about skyscrapers…

darwin is growing. evolving if you will. (i had to, i’m sorry. must be the chemicals.)

a little back history for you courtesy of wikipedia:

“Darwin is the capital city of the Northern Territory, Australia. Situated on the Timor Sea, Darwin is the more populated of the two cities in the sparsely populated Northern Territory, with a population of 129,062. It is the smallest and most northerly of the Australian capital cities, and acts as the Top End’s regional centre. Darwin has grown from a pioneer outpost and small port into one of Australia’s most modern cities.”

and as we unloaded our bags into the guest bedroom of one of ryan’s mates, i was glad to be back in a city. a growing city.

as much as i love nature and small towns, there is just something about the energy of a city that makes my insides flutter. it doesn’t even have to be a big city. just a place trying to be a city is fine. the energy is still there.

and what could you possibly want after a day filled with all the nature australia’s northern territory has to offer? all you can eat steak and seafood on the darwin wharf? oh sure, why not.

darwin’s wharf is cute. sort of reminds me of the boardwalk in santa cruz. it’s complete with breathtaking views of the sunset and massive ships carrying who-knows-what off into the horizon.

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after an endless flow of seafood and steak and conversation, it was time to call it a night and enjoy our free five star accommodations.

rise and shine and get ready to take in all darwin has to offer. after being told that the jumping croc tour boats were shut down for the rainy season, we headed to explore east point reserve and downtown.

darwin highlights:

  • strolling around the tide pools on the shore of east point reserve.

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  • learning tons of history about australia and darwin’s role in world war II. even crawling into an old lookout bunker. dad, you would love this place. there’s even a military museum! for your education, another wikipedia theft: 

“Around 10,000 Allied troops arrived in Darwin in the early 1940s at the outset of World War II, in order to defend Australia’s northern coastline. On 19 February 1942 at 0957, 188 Japanese warplanes attacked Darwin in two waves. It was the same fleet that had bombed Pearl Harbor, though a considerably larger number of bombs were dropped on Darwin than on Pearl Harbor. The attack killed at least 243 people and caused immense damage to the town. These were by far the most serious attacks on Australia in time of war, in terms of fatalities and damage. They were the first of many raids on Darwin.”

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  • crocosauras cove. as much as i want to see a croc in the wild, i of course never actually want to see a croc in the wild. so i settled for second best: visiting a reptile and crocodile aquarium smack dab in the middle of downtown darwin complete with deadly (and non-deadly) snakes, too many kids of goannas, some stingrays, fish that spit at you, and five full grown crocodiles. and who knew feeding baby crocs could be so much fun? it’s like taunting a dog with a bone… (a dog that could rip you to pieces instantly.)

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  • meeting up with friends for chicken parmi (not beef, never order beef parmi) and a pub crawl down the main drag. like any good pub crawl, the night ended up with me dancing and singing to a live band playing mainly covers of popular american tunes. if only it was tuesday, i could have made my australian karaoke debut…

next time darwin, next time…

thanks a lot america.

so today i woke up to this in my email:

Hi There!

We are working on a casting for a short film about individuals who are living/traveling in remote areas of the world, working in different fields, who have a special story to share about their experience – I came across your info via the web, and wanted to see if you OR someone you know may be interested in this.

Below are more specifics about the project and the Director etc…

Feel free to reach out with any questions as you look over. If its not for you, maybe a fellow traveler you have met, or organization that helped you along the way?

Thanks for your consideration!
_____

We are a New York City based casting agency looking for INTERNATIONAL YOUNG ADULTS LIVING IN REMOTE LOCATIONS ABROAD FROM THEIR FAMILIES for an online short film sponsored by the Knorr brand.

Selected individuals will be featured in a short film portraying passionate people sharing their story about living in remote areas far from home.

CASTING:
* Male or Female (age: 20 – 30’s)
* Originally from Europe, Brazil, Central America, or South East Asia (Non-American)
* Living AWAY FROM HOME in remote location
* Example Careers: Researchers, Adventurers, Teachers, NGO, Doctors/Nurses, Volunteers, Foreign Correspondent, etc
* Willing to express their passions and feelings of being away from home
* Relatives (parents) back home they can video chat with
* Non-English speakers welcome, feel free to submit in your native language and we will translate

SHOOT DETAILS:
CLIENT: Knorr
AWARD WINNING DIRECTOR: Nanette Burstein (Including nominations for an Academy Award, Sundance Jury Prize, Emmy, etc)
GOOGLE AD (example of another project we cast for Nanette)
SHOOT DATES: week of Feb 10 or Feb 17 (Flexible dates)
LOCATION: Director will travel to you

COMPENSATION:  All selected featured individuals will be compensated monetarily (more info available)

SUBMISSION INSTRUCTIONS:
**First deadline for submissions: Friday, January 17th 2014**

1. Complete short online submission form: http://tinyurl.com/zancasting-knorr
2. Email leah@zanludlum.com with:
– Photos of yourself, your environment, and your family at home
– Link to short webcam video of yourself telling us your story
(For the video: please tell us a little about yourself, your current job/location, and about your family & relationship with them)
_____

i was pumped. this would be awesome. i am all of these things. i watched the google commercial they did and was like, yeah, that’s totally me.

and then i saw that damn hyphenated word. “non-american.”

of course i emailed her just to double check if the rules couldn’t be bent for this very special american girl living in a remote mining town in west australia. she said she’d let me know if the specs change. i said i’d help spread the word and post it on my blog.

so here i am, inviting any non-americans living in remote areas abroad to take the role that could have made me famous.

sigh.

on the plus side, she found me online. SHE found ME. which means my traveling self is finally making a dent on the internet. on the minus side, i’m still not non-american.

sometimes it pays to be an american, but today i wish i had a better german accent.